The Pemi loop, from Flume to Bond in a single day.
The Pemi Loop (or Pemigewasset Loop) is a rugged and demanding loop trail located in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Renowned for its breathtaking views and challenging terrain, this loop trail begins and ends at the Lincoln Woods Trailhead, taking you through a variety of landscapes—from dense forests to the exposed ridgelines of Franconia Ridge and Bondcliff.
Overview
The trail's minimum 31 miles and 10,000 feet of elevation gain makes it a formidable challenge for outdoor enthusiasts. It can be tackled in a number of ways, as a single-day hike or a multi-day backpacking adventure.
For this trip, I embarked on a clockwise, single-day loop. This was my second time tackling this hike and this time I decided to add on two of the optional sub-peaks - short out and back to the summits of Galehead and West Bond (both New England 400-footers).
I like to break this hike down into 5 sections, which I have outlined below. Mentally, taking this systematic approach helps me stay focused on the larger goal and enables me to enjoy each section of varied terrain individually.
Trail Conditions
The weather was a mixed bag early, but mild and moderate overall. There was very light wind all day, which, to me, is key to making this hike enjoyable. Clouds, high humidity, and a short rain shower followed me from Lincoln Woods across Franconia Ridge. Skies cleared and the sun came out from Galehead on, and while the sun certainly warmed things up, cool temperatures persisted at elevation all day.
Trip Details
- Date: July 5, 2024
- Distance: 32.06 miles
- Elevation Gain: 10,469 feet
- Trailhead: Begin and end at Lincoln Woods Trailhead
- Difficulty: Moderate/Difficult
- Terrain: Mix of dirt trail, moderate rock scrambles, alpine rock trails, some muddy sections (especially in the Garfield area and between Galehead/Bond)
- Navigation: Paper map & GPS (trail is clear and well-marked at all times)
- Water: Limited water sources; reliable, seasonal sources include Garfield Spring (~Mile 13.75, at junction with Mt. Garfield Trail), Galehead Hut (~Mile 16.5), along Bondcliff Trail (~Mile 25), past the summit, when descending to Lincoln Woods
- Permits: None required. $5 (USD) parking fee at Lincoln Woods
Maps & GPS
Section Breakdown
Section 1: Lincoln Woods trailhead to Flume
I like to get started early and I walked across the footbridge over the Pemigewasset River at the beginning of the trail around 2:55am. The first 2 miles are along the Lincoln Woods trail, an old logging railbed that is smooth and flat. Around mile 2, I made a left onto the Osseo Trail and began my ascent to the Summit of Flume. Overall, the climb up to Flume is a relatively moderate climb by New England standards. There are a number of wooden ladders to climb as you get closer to the summit and a nice little “downview” where you can look down into the valley.
I was still dark when I emerged from the forest on the semi-wooded peak of Flume. The plateau on the summit can be a nice place to view the sunrise, but on this day I could see clouds that would prevent that (so it goes) , so I decided to continue on my trek towards Liberty and the iconic, exposed summits of the Franconia Ridge.
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 2,850 feet
Section 2: Flume to Lafayette
From Flume I descended back below into the treeline as a rain shower came through and slickended up the rocks a bit. Luckily it quickly passed and by the time I was up and over Liberty and on my way to Little Haystack.
At this point, I was hiking along the iconic Franconia Ridge, with 360 degree views of the Pemi valley to my right and the high point of the day, with Lincoln and Lafayette, ahead of me. This section is mainly moderate rock scrambling, and mixed dirt/rock alpine trails. Mind the alpine vegetation and stay on the marked trail.
Some clouds remained in the sky as I traversed the ridge towards Lafayette but the light of the morning was full by the time I reached the summit of Lafayette. I ran into a pair of hikers here and exchanged pleasantries and our plans for the day.
I was now at the highest elevation of the day.
Distance: 10 miles
Elevation Gain: 5,400 feet
Section 3: Lafayette to Galehead Hut
At the summit, the trail becomes the Garfield Ridge Trail. I began a relatively slow descent up and down several shoulder peaks of Lafayette, before beginning a sharper descent back below the treeline towards Garfield.
This section is a relatively long 7+ mile section, with the summit of Garfield sitting just about in the middle. Here, the terrain is much different than the exposed rocks of the Franconia Ridge, it’s wooded with muddy sections and moderate rock scrambles that tend to be wet or damp.
After a few miles and some ups and downs, I heard the calls of toads as I approached Garfield Pond and began my ascent to the summit. I also ran into a number of A.T. hikers who had camped by the pond and were just getting their days started. The climb up Garfield felt fast and moderate compared to previous climbs. I stopped at a lookout, glanced up and realized I was just a few feet away from the summit, marked by the concrete foundation of the old fire observation cabin. That was quick!
After hitting the summit, the trail continues for another 3 miles to the Galehead Hut with more of the same ups and downs. About a quarter mile from the summit, at the junction with the Mt. Garfield Trail, I stopped at the Garfield Spring (a fairly consistent water source) and filtered some water into my bottles. The cold water from the spring was delicious.
The small climbs don’t give up with the final one taking you right to the AMC Galehead Hut. I dropped my pack at the hut and quickly completed the 1 mile out/back to the summit of Galhead. Once back at the hut, I quickly refilled my water, grabbed a snack, then pushed on. The hut was quiet at this time of day, with only a few other hikers present.
I was now at the midpoint of the hike.
Distance: 17 miles
Elevation Gain: 7,900 feet
Section 4: Galehead Hut to Bond Cliff
From the hut, it’s literally straight up to the summit of South Twin with about 1,000 feet of elevation gain in less than a mile. The climb is strenuous but the terrain of the rocky climb is pretty consistent, with only a few extended slabs or awkward holds to maneuver through.
When I reached the summit, I was greeted with another set of 360-degree views and the clouds were clearing out, giving way to clear and sunny skies. I didn’t stay here too long and began the descent on the Twinway trail towards the Bonds.
Here, the trail quickly descends below the treeline once again and the next few miles are a fairly moderate walk with a few smaller ups/down and muddy sections. The trail re-enters a treeless alpine zone and becomes a rocky trail, shortly before the turnoff to Mt. Guyot, before once again descending back below the trees.
Around mile 20.5, I made a left onto the West Bond spur for my second side trip of the day, a quick 1 mile out/back to the summit of West Bond. This one is not to be missed on a clear day with light winds. The summit is a small plateau at the dead end of the trail with arguably the best few of the day. From here I looked back, way across the valley, at the summits of the Franconia ridge I had submitted hours before.
After descending and returning back to the Bond Cliff Trail, I continued on to the summit of Mt. Bond. From here, I looked down at a beautiful view of the windy trail up the spine of Bond Cliff that I would be climbing shortly. The climb to Bond Cliff is rocky, but relatively moderate climbing and scrambling. The Summit of Bond Cliff provides the final views of the day, another moment of 360 degree views of the surrounding White Mountains. The iconic cliff also affords a great photo opportunity for those not afraid of a bit of exposure and have a friend to take the pic!
This marked the final stage of the hike and I had ascended 99% of the elevation.
Distance: 23.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 10,350 feet
Section 5: Bond Cliff to Lincoln Woods trailhead
From Bond Cliff, the ascent is rocky and steep to start, but quickly moderates into a fairly moderate dirt/rock surface along several switchbacks. At this point I picked up my pace and began trail running the descent.
Along the way, I stopped at the first stream and filtered some water. There are several water crossings, large and small, on the descent towards Lincoln Woods trail, which provide the opportunity to fill up one last time for the final push.
After about 3 miles of descent along the Bond Cliff Trail, the trail completely flattens out as you connect with the old logging railbed. Here you can see many of the old, decaying ties along the trail. From this point, I ran the remainder of the flat trail for the last 3ish miles. I passed the turnoff to Franconia Falls and the tail was busy with people visiting the falls or wading in the river.
I was happy to once again see the footbridge over the Pemigewasset River and before I knew it I was back at my car.
Distance: 32.06 miles
Elevation Gain: 10,469 feet
Time: 12 hours and 50 minutes
Tips
- Climbing West Bond: On a nice day with light winds, this one is not to be missed in my opinion. It’s a quick out/back, totalling 1 mile and you’ll get some 350 great views from the perch on the summit.
- Climbing Galehead: No notable views, but If you’re checking off the 48, it’s a quick out/back from Galehead Hut totalling 1 mile. You’ll never be closer and if you skip it, you’ll have to climb back up to the ridge to bag it later!
- Limited water sources: Aside from the final descent after West Bond, there are only 2 water sources (seasonal, summer) on the trail - the Garfield spring (~Mile 13.75, at junction with Mt. Garfield Trail) and the Galehead Hut (~Mile 16.5). Note that the Galehead Hut is only open during summer months.
- Be mindful of wind speeds & summit temperature: There are numerous times on the hike where you will be fully exposed, at elevations above 4k. Be mindful and considerate of this as you plan your hike. A windy day can cool things down and make traversing sections of the hike harder. At its worst, it can create dangerous or deadly wind chills. Do your research, have previous experience and plan smart.
Gear recommendations
- Grippy shoes: For the most part, the terrain is moderate with very few (if any) risky sections and no exposure. However, if wet some sections of the trail can be muddy or wet rocks. I’ve done this hike in summer, in both Salomon X Ultra boots and Hoka SpeedGoats and while I do not think any special gear is needed, the good grip on Hoka’s or LaSportiva’s can be helpful.